Mexican Fine Dining? Yup it exists. 

Photo via Eduardo de San Angel, Facebook.

(Mirror) You know from the name that Eduardo de San Angel is not going to be your run of the mill restaurant, and it doesn’t disappoint in that regard. This is not a place you go to scarf down a couple tacos pastor after a few beers. 

The minute you walk into the door you know this is a place where you dine, not just eat. This is a temple to the creativity and talent of chef Eduardo Pria (brought up in the neighborhood of San Angel in Mexico City, hence the name). 

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While still a teenager Eduardo earned a scholarship to attend culinary school in Madrid, Spain, graduating 4 years later with high honors. After graduation, he underwent multiple internships in Spain, France and Italy. He moved to the U.S. and was the chef at famed Mansion in Turtle Creek. Pria later moved to Florida and opened his titular restaurant. 

The menu at Eduardo de San Angel reflects not only the chef’s roots, but his travels; with dishes such as an excellent, piquant and spicy tortilla soup sharing the menu with lamb chops and crème brûlée. In addition to the aforementioned tortilla soup, we began our meal with a creamy puree of cilantro and zucchini that was refreshing yet provided just a bit of heat at the back of the throat. 

An appetizer of crab cakes presented two thick patties, bursting with lump and blue crab, halved and displayed across a trio of sauces; a warm and toasty mole, a refreshing crema and a spicy chipotle chile sauce. 

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Seeing the cheese ravioli on the menu sparked the interest of my vegetarian husband. The dozen or so pasta pockets were filled with fresh cheese and lightly dressed in a vibrant chipotle and toasted walnut cream sauce. The pasta was augmented by a dollop of refried black beans which added a rich, luxurious underpinning. When I asked if the roasted Long Island duck was crispy, I was assured it was and asked if I would like it extra crispy. That’s always risky because it can dry out the meat, but when it arrived, I was pleasantly surprised by how moist and flavorful the flesh was, while the skin practically snapped. The spicy guava syrup and cinnamon poached pear compote proved to be the perfect accompaniment.

Friends had warned me to save room for dessert (and I did, half of each course went home with me) as the dessert selection was not to be missed. Our charming server brought over the dessert tray (everything made in-house, he assured us) and again chef Eduardo’s global experience is reflected. The crème brûlée is infused with guava, the pears are poached in a deep red port. I opted for the tri-layer chocolate cake. A creamy milk chocolate mousse resting upon a layer of dark chocolate ganache, sitting atop of crust of crushed nuts, was an absolute delight.

The service and atmosphere aren’t at quite at the same level as the cuisine. And at $150 for dinner for two (without drinks), they should be. I do have some minor critiques.

For instance the servers, while attentive and doting, reached across one diner to present food to another. At a taco joint, I’ll excuse that, but at this level of dining I expect (and pay for) more. Still they aren’t severe flaws. In fact, most wouldn’t notice them. 

But from a restaurant that has been featured on Food Network and profiled in Gourmet Magazine and Bon Appetite and top rated from Zagat, I expect only the best.

Eduardo de San Angel

2822 East Commercial, Fort Lauderdale

954-772-4731

eduardodesanangel.com

  

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